'Made in Italy' is one of the most sought-after mentions when buying a leather bag. It is also one of the vaguest. Here is what it covers, and how to judge for yourself.
What the mention says, and what it does not
'Made in Italy' indicates the country of the last substantial transformation of the product. On its own, it says nothing about the origin of the leathers, the level of handwork, or the region. An industrially assembled bag and a bag assembled by hand in a workshop can carry the same mention.
A serious brand therefore specifies more: where (the region, the town), by whom (a workshop, artisans), and with what (the origin of the leathers).
Why Tuscany comes up so often
Tuscany, and in particular the area around Florence, has for decades concentrated leather goods workshops, tanneries and hardware suppliers. Many luxury houses have their products made there. Scandicci, on the outskirts of Florence, is one of the emblematic towns of this district; this is where WENLIH bags are made.
Four details to look at on the bag
- The edges. On a quality bag, the edges of the leather are dyed in several layers, smoothed, regular. A sloppy edge is seen immediately.
- The lining. A leather interior rather than fabric is a more costly choice, common in demanding workshops. WENLIH bags are lined with lambskin.
- Weight relative to volume. A well-split leather (thinned to the right thickness) gives a light bag that holds its shape. A 14 cm Vrille weighs 180 g.
- The stitching. Regular, taut, with no thread sticking out at the corners.
Three questions to ask the brand
- In which town or region is the bag made?
- Where do the leathers come from (tannery, country)?
- Which steps are done by hand?
If the answer is precise, it is a good sign. For WENLIH: Scandicci (Tuscany); goat leather from a tannery in Chabris (France) and lambskin tanned in Italy; cutting, splitting, skiving, assembly, stitching and edge dyeing carried out in the workshop.
Read next: Made in Tuscany · 'Handmade': what it means